/* =========================================================================
   The Itinerary Room - main stylesheet
   Warm ivory, charcoal, muted green and restrained antique gold.
   ========================================================================= */

:root {
  --ivory: #faf6ef;
  --cream: #f3ecdf;
  --sand: #e6dccb;
  --line: #ddd2bf;
  --ink: #22231f;
  --text: #34332e;
  --muted: #6b675d;
  --green: #333d36;
  --green-deep: #262e29;
  --gold: #b0843a;        /* decorative gold (logo tone) */
  --gold-text: #87632a;   /* gold for text on light backgrounds (AA contrast) */
  --gold-soft: #cfae6e;   /* button fill and accents on dark */
  --gold-pale: #e9d9b6;
  --white: #fffdf9;

  --serif: "Cormorant Garamond", "Cormorant", Garamond, "Times New Roman", serif;
  --sans: "Jost", "Avenir Next", "Segoe UI", system-ui, -apple-system, sans-serif;

  --wrap: 1200px;
  --wrap-narrow: 760px;
  --gutter: clamp(1rem, 4vw, 2.5rem);
  --radius: 2px;
  --shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(34, 35, 31, .06), 0 8px 24px rgba(34, 35, 31, .06);
  --header-h: 108px;
}

*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; scroll-behavior: smooth; scroll-padding-top: calc(var(--header-h) + 1rem); }
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) { html { scroll-behavior: auto; } *, *::before, *::after { transition: none !important; animation: none !important; } }

body {
  margin: 0;
  background: var(--ivory);
  color: var(--text);
  font-family: var(--sans);
  font-size: 1.0625rem;
  line-height: 1.7;
  font-weight: 400;
  text-rendering: optimizeLegibility;
  -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;
}

img { max-width: 100%; height: auto; display: block; }
a { color: var(--gold-text); text-decoration-thickness: 1px; text-underline-offset: .2em; }
a:hover { color: var(--ink); }
:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--gold); outline-offset: 3px; }
main:focus { outline: none; }

h1, h2, h3, h4, .h4 {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-weight: 500;
  color: var(--ink);
  line-height: 1.15;
  margin: 0 0 .5em;
  letter-spacing: -.005em;
}
h1 { font-size: clamp(2.4rem, 5.5vw, 4rem); }
h2 { font-size: clamp(1.9rem, 3.4vw, 2.6rem); }
h3 { font-size: clamp(1.35rem, 2vw, 1.6rem); }
h4, .h4 { font-size: 1.35rem; }
p { margin: 0 0 1.1em; }
ul, ol { padding-left: 1.2em; margin: 0 0 1.2em; }
li { margin-bottom: .4em; }
strong { font-weight: 500; color: var(--ink); }
small, .small { font-size: .875rem; }

.visually-hidden { position: absolute !important; width: 1px; height: 1px; padding: 0; margin: -1px; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); white-space: nowrap; border: 0; }
.skip-link { position: absolute; left: 1rem; top: -4rem; z-index: 100; background: var(--ink); color: var(--white); padding: .6rem 1rem; }
.skip-link:focus { top: 1rem; color: var(--white); }

.container { width: 100%; max-width: var(--wrap); margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 var(--gutter); }
.container-wide { max-width: 1400px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 var(--gutter); }
.narrow { max-width: var(--wrap-narrow); }
.center { text-align: center; }

/* Editable placeholders: deliberately visible until replaced */
.ph { background: #f7ecd2; color: #6a4d14; border-bottom: 1px dashed #b08a45; padding: 0 .25em; font-family: var(--sans); font-size: .88em; font-style: normal; }
.section--green .ph, .cta-band .ph { background: rgba(255, 244, 214, .15); color: var(--gold-pale); }

/* ---------- Eyebrows, links, buttons ---------- */
.eyebrow {
  font-family: var(--sans); font-size: .75rem; font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: .22em; text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--gold-text); margin: 0 0 .9rem;
}
.eyebrow a { color: inherit; text-decoration: none; }
.eyebrow a:hover { text-decoration: underline; }
.eyebrow--light { color: var(--gold-pale); }

.arrow { display: inline-block; transition: transform .2s ease; }
a:hover .arrow, .card:hover .arrow { transform: translateX(3px); }

.text-link { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.15rem; color: var(--ink); text-decoration: underline; text-decoration-color: var(--gold); }
.text-link:hover { color: var(--gold-text); }
.center-link { text-align: center; margin: 2.5rem 0 0; }

.btn {
  display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: .5em; justify-content: center;
  font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.12rem; font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: .01em;
  padding: .72em 1.5em; border: 1px solid transparent; border-radius: var(--radius);
  text-decoration: none; cursor: pointer; transition: background-color .2s ease, color .2s ease, border-color .2s ease;
  line-height: 1.2;
}
.btn-gold { background: var(--gold-soft); color: var(--ink); border-color: var(--gold-soft); }
.btn-gold:hover { background: var(--gold-pale); border-color: var(--gold-pale); color: var(--ink); }
.btn-outline { background: transparent; color: var(--ink); border-color: var(--gold); }
.btn-outline:hover { background: var(--gold); color: var(--white); }
.btn-ghost-light { background: rgba(20, 22, 20, .2); color: var(--white); border-color: rgba(255, 253, 249, .7); }
.btn-ghost-light:hover { background: var(--white); color: var(--ink); }
.btn-row { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .9rem; }
.btn-row--center { justify-content: center; }

/* ---------- Header & navigation ---------- */
.site-header { position: sticky; top: 0; z-index: 50; background: var(--ivory); border-bottom: 1px solid transparent; transition: border-color .2s ease, box-shadow .2s ease; }
.site-header.is-scrolled { border-bottom-color: var(--line); box-shadow: 0 2px 16px rgba(34, 35, 31, .05); }
.header-inner { max-width: 1360px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 var(--gutter); min-height: var(--header-h); display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 2rem; }
.site-header.is-scrolled .header-inner { min-height: 84px; }
.brand { display: block; flex: 0 0 auto; }
.brand img { width: 300px; mix-blend-mode: multiply; }
.site-header.is-scrolled .brand img { width: 240px; }
.site-nav { margin-left: auto; display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 2rem; }
.nav-list { list-style: none; display: flex; gap: 2rem; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.nav-list li { margin: 0; position: relative; }
.nav-list > li > a { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.12rem; color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; padding: .5rem 0; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: .35rem; border-bottom: 1px solid transparent; }
.nav-list > li > a:hover, .nav-list > li > a[aria-current="page"] { border-bottom-color: var(--gold); }
.chev { opacity: .7; }
.sub {
  list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: .6rem 0; position: absolute; top: 100%; left: -1.2rem; min-width: 220px;
  background: var(--white); border: 1px solid var(--line); box-shadow: var(--shadow);
  opacity: 0; visibility: hidden; transform: translateY(6px); transition: opacity .18s ease, transform .18s ease, visibility .18s;
}
.has-sub:hover .sub, .has-sub:focus-within .sub { opacity: 1; visibility: visible; transform: translateY(0); }
.sub a { display: block; padding: .45rem 1.2rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.08rem; color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.sub a:hover { background: var(--cream); color: var(--gold-text); }
.sub-all { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); margin-top: .4rem; padding-top: .4rem; }
.sub-all a { font-family: var(--sans); font-size: .78rem; letter-spacing: .16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--gold-text); }
.nav-cta { font-size: 1.08rem; padding: .55em 1.2em; }
.nav-cta[aria-current="page"] { background: var(--gold); color: var(--white); }
.icon-link { color: var(--ink); display: inline-flex; padding: .5rem; }
.icon-link:hover { color: var(--gold-text); }
.nav-toggle { display: none; }

@media (max-width: 1080px) {
  .nav-list { gap: 1.4rem; }
  .site-nav { gap: 1.4rem; }
  .brand img { width: 250px; }
  .site-header.is-scrolled .brand img { width: 210px; }
}

@media (max-width: 1100px) {
  :root { --header-h: 84px; }
  .brand img, .site-header.is-scrolled .brand img { width: 215px; }
  .site-header.is-scrolled .header-inner { min-height: var(--header-h); }
  .search-link { margin-left: auto; }
  .nav-toggle {
    display: inline-flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; width: 44px; height: 44px; padding: 0;
    background: none; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--radius); cursor: pointer; color: var(--ink);
  }
  .bars, .bars::before, .bars::after { display: block; width: 20px; height: 1.5px; background: currentColor; position: relative; transition: transform .2s ease, background-color .2s; }
  .bars::before, .bars::after { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 0; }
  .bars::before { top: -6px; } .bars::after { top: 6px; }
  .nav-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .bars { background: transparent; }
  .nav-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .bars::before { transform: translateY(6px) rotate(45deg); }
  .nav-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .bars::after { transform: translateY(-6px) rotate(-45deg); }

  .header-inner { flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .5rem; }
  .site-nav {
    order: 5; flex-basis: 100%; margin: 0; flex-direction: column; align-items: stretch; gap: 0;
    border-top: 1px solid var(--line); padding: .5rem 0 1.5rem;
  }
  .js .site-nav { display: none; max-height: calc(100vh - var(--header-h)); overflow-y: auto; }
  .js .site-nav.is-open { display: flex; }
  .nav-list { flex-direction: column; gap: 0; }
  .nav-list > li { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
  .nav-list > li > a { display: flex; padding: .85rem 0; font-size: 1.3rem; border-bottom: 0; }
  .nav-list > li > a[aria-current="page"] { color: var(--gold-text); }
  .chev { display: none; }
  .sub { position: static; opacity: 1; visibility: visible; transform: none; border: 0; box-shadow: none; background: transparent; padding: 0 0 .8rem 1rem; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; min-width: 0; }
  .sub a { padding: .35rem 0; font-size: 1.05rem; }
  .sub a:hover { background: none; }
  .sub-all { grid-column: 1 / -1; border: 0; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
  .nav-cta { margin-top: 1.25rem; align-self: flex-start; }
}

/* ---------- Breadcrumbs ---------- */
.breadcrumbs { max-width: var(--wrap); margin: 0 auto; padding: .8rem var(--gutter); font-size: .82rem; letter-spacing: .04em; }
.breadcrumbs ol { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .3rem; }
.breadcrumbs li { margin: 0; color: var(--muted); }
.breadcrumbs li + li::before { content: "/"; margin-right: .35rem; color: var(--line); }
.breadcrumbs a { color: var(--muted); text-decoration: none; }
.breadcrumbs a:hover { color: var(--gold-text); text-decoration: underline; }

/* ---------- Heroes ---------- */
.hero, .page-hero { position: relative; display: grid; isolation: isolate; color: var(--white); overflow: hidden; background: #2a2b27; }
.hero-media, .page-hero-media { grid-area: 1 / 1; position: relative; z-index: -1; }
.hero-media img, .page-hero-media img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
.hero-media::after, .page-hero-media::after {
  content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0;
  background: linear-gradient(90deg, rgba(18, 20, 18, .55) 0%, rgba(18, 20, 18, .28) 50%, rgba(18, 20, 18, .12) 100%);
}
.page-hero-media::after { background: linear-gradient(0deg, rgba(18, 20, 18, .62) 0%, rgba(18, 20, 18, .18) 55%, rgba(18, 20, 18, .08) 100%); }
.hero { min-height: clamp(540px, calc(100vh - var(--header-h)), 780px); }
.hero-inner, .page-hero-inner { grid-area: 1 / 1; align-self: center; width: 100%; max-width: var(--wrap); margin: 0 auto; padding: 4rem var(--gutter); }
.hero h1 { color: var(--white); font-size: clamp(2.7rem, 6vw, 5.2rem); font-weight: 500; line-height: 1.04; letter-spacing: -.01em; max-width: 12em; margin-bottom: .4em; text-shadow: 0 1px 24px rgba(0, 0, 0, .25); }
.hero-lede { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(1.2rem, 2.1vw, 1.55rem); line-height: 1.45; max-width: 32em; margin-bottom: 2rem; color: #f6efe3; }
.page-hero { min-height: clamp(320px, 46vh, 480px); }
.page-hero--tall { min-height: clamp(400px, 64vh, 640px); }
.page-hero-inner { align-self: end; padding-bottom: clamp(2.5rem, 6vw, 4.5rem); }
.page-hero h1 { color: var(--white); margin-bottom: .25em; }
.page-hero .hero-lede { margin-bottom: 0; }
@media (max-width: 600px) { .br-wide { display: none; } .hero { min-height: 560px; } .hero-media::after { background: rgba(18, 20, 18, .45); } .page-hero-media::after { background: linear-gradient(0deg, rgba(18, 20, 18, .7), rgba(18, 20, 18, .2)); } }

/* ---------- Sections ---------- */
.section { padding: clamp(3.5rem, 8vw, 6rem) 0; }
.section--tight { padding: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 3.5rem) 0; }
.section--cream { background: var(--cream); }
.section--green { background: var(--green); color: #e9e4d8; }
.section--green h2, .section--green h3 { color: var(--white); }
.section--green a { color: var(--gold-pale); }
.section-head { max-width: 760px; margin-bottom: 2.5rem; }
.section-head--center { margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center; }
.section-head p:last-child { margin-bottom: 0; color: var(--muted); }
.section--green .section-head p { color: #d6d0c2; }
.section-head-row { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: end; gap: 1rem 2rem; flex-wrap: wrap; margin-bottom: 2rem; }
.section-head-row h2 { margin-bottom: 0; }

.rule-heading { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 1.5rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(1rem, 1.6vw, 1.15rem); font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: .28em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink); justify-content: center; }
.rule-heading::before, .rule-heading::after { content: ""; flex: 0 1 140px; height: 1px; background: var(--gold); opacity: .7; }

/* ---------- Cards ---------- */
.card-grid { display: grid; gap: clamp(1.5rem, 3vw, 2.25rem); }
.grid-3 { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); }
.grid-2 { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); }
@media (max-width: 960px) { .grid-3 { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); } }
@media (max-width: 600px) { .grid-3, .grid-2 { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } }

.card { position: relative; display: flex; flex-direction: column; background: transparent; }
.card-media { overflow: hidden; background: var(--sand); aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; }
.insight-card .card-media { aspect-ratio: 16 / 10; }
.card-media img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; transition: transform .8s ease; }
.card:hover .card-media img { transform: scale(1.035); }
.card-body { padding: 1.2rem 0 0; display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex: 1; }
.dest-card .card-body { text-align: center; align-items: center; }
.card-title { font-size: 1.65rem; margin-bottom: .2rem; }
.card-title a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.stretched::after { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: 1; }
.card:hover .card-title a { color: var(--gold-text); }
.card-title a:focus-visible { outline: none; }
.card:has(.stretched:focus-visible) { outline: 2px solid var(--gold); outline-offset: 6px; }
.card-tagline { font-family: var(--serif); font-style: italic; font-size: 1.15rem; color: var(--muted); margin-bottom: .5rem; }
.card-text { font-size: .97rem; color: var(--text); margin-bottom: .9rem; }
.card-route { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.1rem; color: var(--muted); margin-bottom: .5rem; }
.card-link { margin-top: auto; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.08rem; color: var(--ink); text-decoration: underline; text-decoration-color: var(--gold); text-underline-offset: .25em; }
.card .eyebrow { margin-bottom: .5rem; }
.section--green .card-title a, .section--green .card-link { color: var(--white); }

/* ---------- Split / approach ---------- */
.split { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 5fr 6fr; gap: clamp(2rem, 6vw, 5rem); align-items: center; }
.split--reverse .split-media { order: 2; }
.split-media img.tall, .split-media img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 6 / 7; object-fit: cover; }
.split-text h2 { margin-bottom: .7em; }
@media (max-width: 860px) { .split { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } .split--reverse .split-media { order: 0; } .split-media img { aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; } }
.portrait { margin: 0; }
.portrait figcaption { font-size: .85rem; color: var(--muted); margin-top: .6rem; }

.tick-list { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 1.5rem 0 2rem; }
.tick-list li { position: relative; padding-left: 1.8rem; margin-bottom: .7rem; }
.tick-list li::before { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 0; top: .72em; width: 1rem; height: 1px; background: var(--gold); }

/* ---------- Trust ---------- */
.trust-grid { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); gap: 2.5rem; }
.trust-grid li { margin: 0; text-align: center; }
.trust-grid h3 { font-size: 1.4rem; margin: 1rem 0 .5rem; }
.trust-grid p { font-size: .96rem; color: #d6d0c2; margin: 0; }
.trust-icon { width: 46px; height: 46px; fill: none; stroke: var(--gold-soft); stroke-width: 1.3; stroke-linecap: round; stroke-linejoin: round; }
@media (max-width: 960px) { .trust-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); } }
@media (max-width: 560px) { .trust-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } }

/* ---------- Steps ---------- */
.steps { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); gap: 2rem; counter-reset: none; }
.steps li { margin: 0; padding-top: 1.4rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--gold); }
.step-num { display: block; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 2.2rem; color: var(--gold-text); line-height: 1; margin-bottom: .8rem; }
.steps h3 { font-size: 1.35rem; }
.steps p { font-size: .97rem; color: var(--text); margin: 0; }
@media (max-width: 960px) { .steps { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); } }
@media (max-width: 560px) { .steps { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } }

/* ---------- CTA band ---------- */
.cta-band { position: relative; display: grid; isolation: isolate; background: var(--green-deep); color: #ece6d9; overflow: hidden; }
.cta-band-media { grid-area: 1 / 1; z-index: -1; }
.cta-band-media img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; opacity: .45; }
.cta-band-media::after { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; background: linear-gradient(90deg, rgba(38, 46, 41, .95), rgba(38, 46, 41, .65)); }
.cta-band-inner { grid-area: 1 / 1; max-width: var(--wrap); width: 100%; margin: 0 auto; padding: clamp(3.5rem, 8vw, 5.5rem) var(--gutter); position: relative; }
.cta-band-inner > p { max-width: 36em; font-size: 1.08rem; }
.cta-title { font-style: italic; font-weight: 400; color: var(--white); font-size: clamp(2.1rem, 4.2vw, 3.1rem); }
.cta-band--split .cta-band-inner { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 3fr 2fr; gap: 3rem; align-items: center; }
.cta-aside { border-left: 1px solid var(--gold); padding-left: 2.5rem; }
.cta-aside h3 { color: var(--gold-pale); font-size: 1.4rem; }
.cta-aside ul { padding-left: 1.1em; margin: 0; }
.cta-aside li { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.15rem; line-height: 1.45; margin-bottom: .7rem; color: #f0eadf; }
@media (max-width: 860px) { .cta-band--split .cta-band-inner { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } .cta-aside { border-left: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--gold); padding: 2rem 0 0; } }

/* ---------- Destination / journey / article layout ---------- */
.intro-lead { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 3fr 2fr; gap: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 4rem); padding: clamp(2.5rem, 6vw, 4.5rem) 0 clamp(1.5rem, 4vw, 3rem); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); margin-bottom: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 3.5rem); align-items: start; }
.lead { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(1.35rem, 2.3vw, 1.7rem); line-height: 1.45; color: var(--ink); margin: 0; }
.key-facts { margin: 0; display: grid; gap: 1rem; background: var(--cream); padding: 1.5rem 1.75rem; border-top: 2px solid var(--gold); }
.key-facts div { margin: 0; }
.key-facts dt { font-size: .72rem; letter-spacing: .18em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--gold-text); font-weight: 500; }
.key-facts dd { margin: .15rem 0 0; font-size: .98rem; line-height: 1.5; }
@media (max-width: 860px) { .intro-lead { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } }

.with-toc { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 240px minmax(0, 1fr); gap: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 4.5rem); align-items: start; padding-bottom: clamp(3rem, 7vw, 5rem); }
.toc-aside { position: sticky; top: calc(var(--header-h) + 1.5rem); max-height: calc(100vh - var(--header-h) - 3rem); overflow-y: auto; }
.toc summary { font-size: .74rem; letter-spacing: .2em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--gold-text); font-weight: 500; cursor: pointer; list-style: none; padding-bottom: .7rem; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); margin-bottom: .7rem; }
.toc summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.toc ol { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; }
.toc li { margin: 0; }
.toc a { display: block; padding: .32rem 0 .32rem .8rem; border-left: 1px solid var(--line); font-size: .9rem; line-height: 1.4; color: var(--muted); text-decoration: none; }
.toc a:hover, .toc a.is-active { color: var(--ink); border-left-color: var(--gold); }
@media (max-width: 960px) {
  .with-toc { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .toc-aside { position: static; max-height: none; background: var(--cream); padding: 1rem 1.25rem; }
  .toc summary { border: 0; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
  .toc summary::after { content: " +"; }
  .toc details[open] summary::after { content: " \2013"; }
  .toc details[open] summary { margin-bottom: .6rem; }
}

/* ---------- Prose ---------- */
.prose { max-width: 720px; }
.prose h2 { margin-top: 2.6rem; padding-top: .3rem; }
.prose h2:first-child { margin-top: 0; }
.prose h3 { margin-top: 1.8rem; }
.prose li { margin-bottom: .55em; }
.prose blockquote { margin: 2rem 0; padding: .3rem 0 .3rem 1.5rem; border-left: 2px solid var(--gold); font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.35rem; font-style: italic; color: var(--ink); }
.prose--light, .prose--light p, .prose--light li { color: #e9e4d8; }
.prose--light strong { color: var(--white); }
.feature-figure { margin: 2.5rem 0; }
.feature-figure img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; object-fit: cover; }
.updated-note { font-size: .88rem; color: var(--muted); border-top: 1px solid var(--line); padding-top: 1.2rem; margin-top: 3rem; }

.table-wrap { overflow-x: auto; margin: 1.5rem 0 2rem; -webkit-overflow-scrolling: touch; }
table { border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; font-size: .95rem; min-width: 520px; }
caption { text-align: left; font-size: .85rem; color: var(--muted); margin-bottom: .6rem; caption-side: top; }
th, td { text-align: left; padding: .75rem .9rem; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); vertical-align: top; line-height: 1.5; }
thead th { font-size: .72rem; letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--gold-text); font-weight: 500; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--gold); }
tbody th { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.12rem; font-weight: 500; color: var(--ink); }
.compare-table { background: var(--ivory); }
.compare-table tbody th a { color: var(--ink); }

/* Content containers from the Markdown converter */
.md-regions, .md-cards { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); gap: 1.25rem; margin: 1.5rem 0 2rem; }
.md-regions .md-item, .md-cards .md-item { background: var(--white); border: 1px solid var(--line); padding: 1.3rem 1.4rem 1rem; }
.md-cards .md-item { border-top: 2px solid var(--gold); }
.md-regions h3, .md-cards h3 { margin-top: 0; font-size: 1.35rem; }
.md-regions p, .md-cards p { font-size: .96rem; margin-bottom: .6rem; }
@media (max-width: 640px) { .md-regions, .md-cards { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } }

.md-days { margin: 1.5rem 0 2rem; border-left: 1px solid var(--gold); }
.md-days .md-item { position: relative; padding: 0 0 1.4rem 1.8rem; }
.md-days .md-item::before { content: ""; position: absolute; left: -5px; top: .55rem; width: 9px; height: 9px; border-radius: 50%; background: var(--ivory); border: 1px solid var(--gold); }
.md-days h3 { margin: 0 0 .35rem; font-size: 1.35rem; }
.md-days p { margin-bottom: .5rem; }

.md-faq .md-item { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); padding: 1rem 0 .4rem; }
.md-faq h3 { margin-top: 0; font-size: 1.3rem; }

.md-note, .notice, .md-verify {
  background: var(--cream); border-left: 2px solid var(--gold); padding: 1.1rem 1.4rem; margin: 1.5rem 0 2rem; font-size: .96rem;
}
.md-note p:last-child, .notice p:last-child, .md-verify p:last-child { margin-bottom: 0; }
.md-verify { background: #fbf3e2; }
.md-verify::before { content: "Check before you travel"; display: block; font-size: .72rem; letter-spacing: .18em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--gold-text); font-weight: 500; margin-bottom: .4rem; }
.notice--center { max-width: 820px; margin: 0 auto 3rem; text-align: center; border-left: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--gold); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--gold); background: transparent; }

.md-sources { font-size: .9rem; color: var(--muted); }
.md-sources ul { padding-left: 1.1em; }
.md-sources a { word-break: break-word; }

.md-highlights ul { list-style: none; padding: 0; display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); gap: .6rem 1.5rem; }
.md-highlights li { padding-left: 1.4rem; position: relative; }
.md-highlights li::before { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 0; top: .75em; width: .8rem; height: 1px; background: var(--gold); }
@media (max-width: 640px) { .md-highlights ul { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } }

/* ---------- Articles ---------- */
.article-header { max-width: 900px; padding-top: clamp(1.5rem, 4vw, 3rem); padding-bottom: 2rem; text-align: center; }
.article-header h1 { font-size: clamp(2.3rem, 5vw, 3.6rem); }
.dek { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(1.25rem, 2vw, 1.5rem); line-height: 1.45; color: var(--muted); max-width: 40em; margin: 0 auto 1.5rem; }
.byline { font-size: .88rem; color: var(--muted); border-top: 1px solid var(--line); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); padding: .8rem 0; display: inline-block; }
.byline p { margin: 0; }
.byline span + span::before { content: "\00b7"; margin: 0 .55rem; color: var(--gold); }
.article-hero { margin: 0 auto clamp(2rem, 5vw, 3.5rem); }
.article-hero img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 2 / 1; object-fit: cover; }
@media (max-width: 600px) { .article-hero img { aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; } }
.short-answer { background: var(--cream); border-top: 2px solid var(--gold); padding: 1.4rem 1.6rem .5rem; margin-bottom: 2.5rem; }
.short-answer-title { font-family: var(--sans); font-size: .76rem !important; letter-spacing: .2em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--gold-text); margin: 0 0 .6rem !important; padding: 0 !important; }
.short-answer p { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.3rem; line-height: 1.5; color: var(--ink); }
.editorial-note { margin-top: 3rem; padding-top: 1.5rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); font-size: .92rem; color: var(--muted); }
.editorial-note h2, .soft-cta h2 { margin-top: 0; }
.soft-cta { margin-top: 2rem; padding: 1.6rem 1.8rem; border: 1px solid var(--line); background: var(--white); }

/* ---------- Misc panels ---------- */
.principles { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); gap: 1.5rem 2.5rem; margin-top: 2rem; }
.principles h3 { margin-top: 0; font-size: 1.4rem; }
.principles p { font-size: .98rem; }
@media (max-width: 640px) { .principles { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } }
.info-panel { margin-top: 3rem; padding: 1.6rem 1.8rem; background: var(--cream); border-top: 2px solid var(--gold); }
.info-panel--plain { margin-top: 2rem; background: transparent; padding: 1.2rem 0 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--gold); }
.info-panel h3 { font-size: 1.35rem; }
.info-panel ul { padding-left: 1.1em; font-size: .96rem; }
.standards { background: var(--cream); padding: 1.6rem 1.8rem; border-top: 2px solid var(--gold); margin-bottom: 1rem; font-size: .96rem; }
.standards p { margin: 0; }
.insight-group { padding-top: clamp(2.5rem, 5vw, 4rem); }
.insight-group + .insight-group { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); margin-top: clamp(2.5rem, 5vw, 4rem); }

/* ---------- Form ---------- */
.form-layout { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 2fr 3fr; gap: clamp(2rem, 6vw, 5rem); align-items: start; }
@media (max-width: 900px) { .form-layout { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } }
.inquiry-form { background: var(--white); border: 1px solid var(--line); padding: clamp(1.5rem, 4vw, 2.5rem); box-shadow: var(--shadow); }
.form-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 1.2rem 1.4rem; }
.field { display: flex; flex-direction: column; }
.field--full { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
@media (max-width: 600px) { .form-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } }
label { font-size: .9rem; font-weight: 500; color: var(--ink); margin-bottom: .35rem; }
.req { color: var(--gold-text); }
input[type="text"], input[type="email"], input[type="search"], select, textarea {
  font: inherit; font-size: 1rem; color: var(--ink); background: var(--ivory); border: 1px solid #cfc4b0; border-radius: var(--radius);
  padding: .7rem .85rem; width: 100%; transition: border-color .2s ease, box-shadow .2s ease; min-height: 48px;
}
textarea { resize: vertical; min-height: 140px; }
input:focus, select:focus, textarea:focus { outline: none; border-color: var(--gold); box-shadow: 0 0 0 3px rgba(176, 132, 58, .18); }
.hint { font-size: .82rem; color: var(--muted); margin: .35rem 0 0; }
.field.has-error input, .field.has-error select, .field.has-error textarea { border-color: #a5432f; }
.error-msg { color: #a5432f; font-size: .84rem; margin: .35rem 0 0; }
.field--check { flex-direction: row; align-items: flex-start; gap: .7rem; }
.field--check input { width: 20px; height: 20px; margin-top: .2rem; accent-color: var(--gold); flex: 0 0 auto; }
.field--check label { font-weight: 400; font-size: .92rem; margin: 0; }
.field--hp { position: absolute; left: -9999px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; }
.form-actions { margin-top: 1.6rem; }
.form-actions .btn[disabled] { opacity: .6; cursor: progress; }
.form-status:empty { display: none; }
.form-status { margin-top: 1.4rem; padding: 1rem 1.2rem; border-left: 2px solid var(--gold); background: var(--cream); font-size: .96rem; }
.form-status.is-error { border-left-color: #a5432f; background: #f8ece6; }
.form-status.is-success { border-left-color: #4f6f55; background: #edf1e8; }
.form-noscript { margin-top: 1rem; font-size: .9rem; color: var(--muted); }

/* ---------- Search ---------- */
.search-form { display: flex; gap: .7rem; margin: 1.5rem 0 1rem; }
.search-form input { flex: 1; }
.search-count { font-size: .9rem; color: var(--muted); }
.search-results { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 1.5rem 0 0; }
.search-results li { padding: 1.2rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); margin: 0; }
.search-results li[hidden] { display: none; }
.search-results .eyebrow { display: block; margin-bottom: .2rem; font-size: .68rem; }
.search-results a { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.45rem; color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.search-results a:hover { color: var(--gold-text); text-decoration: underline; }
.search-results p { margin: .3rem 0 0; font-size: .95rem; color: var(--muted); }

/* ---------- Footer ---------- */
.site-footer { background: var(--cream); border-top: 1px solid var(--line); font-size: .94rem; }
.footer-inner { max-width: var(--wrap); margin: 0 auto; padding: clamp(3rem, 7vw, 4.5rem) var(--gutter) 2.5rem; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.4fr 1fr 1fr 1.6fr; gap: 2.5rem; }
.footer-brand .brand img { width: 250px; margin-bottom: 1.4rem; }
.footer-brand p { color: var(--muted); max-width: 28em; }
.footer-col h2 { font-family: var(--sans); font-size: .74rem; letter-spacing: .2em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--gold-text); font-weight: 500; margin-bottom: 1rem; }
.footer-col ul { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; }
.footer-col li { margin-bottom: .45rem; }
.footer-col a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.1rem; }
.footer-col a:hover { color: var(--gold-text); text-decoration: underline; }
.footer-fora p { color: var(--muted); }
.footer-base { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); max-width: var(--wrap); margin: 0 auto; padding: 1.2rem var(--gutter) 2rem; display: flex; justify-content: space-between; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .5rem 2rem; font-size: .82rem; color: var(--muted); }
.footer-base p { margin: 0; }
@media (max-width: 960px) { .footer-inner { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; } }
@media (max-width: 560px) { .footer-inner { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } }

/* ---------- Print ---------- */
@media print {
  .site-header, .site-footer, .cta-band, .toc-aside, .soft-cta, .breadcrumbs { display: none !important; }
  body { background: #fff; font-size: 11pt; }
  .page-hero { color: #000; min-height: 0; } .page-hero-media { display: none; } .page-hero h1 { color: #000; }
  .with-toc { display: block; }
}

/* ---------- Refinement pass ---------- */
/* Photographs: a gentle, consistent editorial tone across images from different photographers */
.hero-media img, .page-hero-media img, .card-media img, .split-media img, .feature-figure img, .article-hero img, .credit-thumb img { filter: saturate(.9) contrast(1.02); }
.hero-inner { padding-top: 3rem; padding-bottom: 4.5rem; }
.hero .btn-row { gap: 1rem; }
.page-hero-inner .eyebrow { margin-bottom: .6rem; }

/* Navigation alignment */
.nav-list > li > a { letter-spacing: .01em; }
.site-nav { gap: 2.4rem; }
.nav-list { gap: 2.1rem; }
@media (max-width: 1240px) and (min-width: 1101px) { .brand img { width: 260px; } .nav-list { gap: 1.5rem; } .site-nav { gap: 1.6rem; } }

/* Cards */
.card-body { padding-top: 1.35rem; }
.dest-card .card-title { font-size: 1.8rem; letter-spacing: .005em; }
.dest-card .card-text { max-width: 30ch; color: var(--muted); }
.card-tagline { margin-bottom: .6rem; }
.card-text { line-height: 1.6; }
.card-link { font-size: 1.05rem; }
.card-grid.grid-3 { row-gap: clamp(2.5rem, 4vw, 3.5rem); }

/* Section rhythm */
.section { padding: clamp(4rem, 8vw, 6.5rem) 0; }
.section-head { margin-bottom: clamp(2.25rem, 4vw, 3.25rem); }
.section-head p { font-size: 1.05rem; }
.rule-heading { margin-bottom: 1.1rem; }

/* Photo credits */
.credit-list { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 2rem 0 0; }
.credit { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 160px 1fr; gap: 1.25rem; padding: 1.1rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); margin: 0; }
.credit-thumb img { width: 160px; aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; object-fit: cover; }
.credit p { margin: 0 0 .25rem; font-size: .92rem; }
.credit-subject { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.2rem !important; color: var(--ink); }
.credit code { font-size: .8rem; }
@media (max-width: 560px) { .credit { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } }

.nav-list > li > a, .nav-cta { white-space: nowrap; }

/* Background photographs fill their container; content and min-height set the height */
.hero-media, .page-hero-media, .cta-band-media { position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -1; }
.hero-media img, .page-hero-media img, .cta-band-media img { position: absolute; inset: 0; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
.cta-band-media img { opacity: .5; }
.hero-inner, .page-hero-inner, .cta-band-inner { position: relative; z-index: 1; }
.signature { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.35rem; color: var(--ink); margin-top: 1.6rem; padding-top: 1.1rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.signature span { display: block; font-family: var(--sans); font-size: .82rem; letter-spacing: .04em; color: var(--muted); margin-top: .15rem; }

/* Confirmation shown after a no-JavaScript submission returns to #inquiry-sent */
.form-sent { display: none; margin-top: 1.4rem; padding: 1rem 1.2rem; border-left: 2px solid #4f6f55; background: #edf1e8; font-size: .96rem; }
.form-sent:target { display: block; }

/* Menu icon: clean X when open */
.nav-toggle .bars::before, .nav-toggle .bars::after { transform-origin: 50% 50%; }
.nav-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .bars::before { top: 0; transform: rotate(45deg); }
.nav-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .bars::after { top: 0; transform: rotate(-45deg); }